Samoa, a Land of Colors

The East Coast of Samoa. 

Views like this is commonplace. 

Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevensom decided to settle here the last few years of his life, taking the name Tusitala which is Samoan for 'Teller of Tales.' 123 years later I am on a mission to visit all 198 countries of the world. Samoa was number 193 on the list. The ten islands that make up Samoa are among the first in the world to experience every new day and every new year, being just west of the international time line. But that is not the only reason to visit. And many have found out. The country is much more touristy than Marshall Islands, although that doesn't really take a lot. Samoa is splendid for surfing, diving, fishing and hiking. It is in fact so green that the people who live here do their uttermost to stand out from it all. Almost every house is painted in bright colours. Add the many white waterfalls, beige beaches, black rocks, blue ocean water and white waves and it all becomes a cheerful experience to travel around.

Colorful houses are everywhere in Samoa. 

I rented a car to explore the island. The 150 Tala (50USD) was a great investment, despite a number of rules I should stick to. The rental car manager listed them without blinking.

- Drive on the left, don't park under coconut trees, go slowl through villages, especially near churches and don't drink and drive.

I didn't think any of that should be a problem, although he soon contradicted himself when recommending where I should go.

Girl running in the Falefa. 

- You should definitely stop at Litia Sini Beach Resort for a swim and a couple of beers.

- But you said no drinking and driving?

- Don't worry, it's a Sunday. The police don't work today.

- Seriously? So if I want to rob someone, I should to it today?

- Hehe…any Sunday would be a good start, yes.

Falefa Waterfall from above.

Actually nothing happens on Sundays in Samoa. Except church. Everywhere. I have rarely seen as many churches as on my drive around half the country. And the sermons seemed to be well attended. That calls for respect. They expect you to pass you slowly. I did. Not that I had much choice with my banger of a rental car Honda, but that's a different story.

Samoa is a true natural paradise. There are trees and vegetation everywhere. I also saw dozens of different fish species on my 20 minute snorkeling off the beach. Do beware of stray pigs, chickens and dogs, though. They are also everywhere.

Nature always wins. 

You will find a decent choice of gourmet restaurants in Apia, the capital. There are also many resorts with superb restaurants around Upolu, the main island. They are primarily located on the west and south coasts.

There is a reason for all the green. Rain
comes sudden and in huge amounts. 

You may also want to visit Savaii by plane or boat. That is the second big island of Samoa, and less touristy. You will also find blowholes there, vertical tubes that go through the rocks down into the sea. When the waves are big, seawater is pressured through them, creating a geysir effect. I didn't go to Savaii, but I will have to leave something for my next visit.

The country is also relatively well connected thanks to several international airlines operating to and from Apia. Air New Zealand has a dialy flight to Auckland, whereas Virgin Samoa takes care of Australian destinations and Air Pacific will transports you from Fiji several times a week and from Honlulu once weekly. I flew in from Honolulu with a couple of dozen surfers. They all checked in surf boards. I now understand why. The waves battering the coastline even appealed to me, a true novice surfer.

More photos below. 

Presumably a well deserved rest. 

Nuutele Island. There used to be a leper colony there. 

The restaurant of Seabreeze Resort is strategically placed. 

Sleeping in a fale, or a beach hut, is popular
among surfers and backpackers visiting Samoa. 

I had a visitor during my lunch at Seabreeze.
Cat burger is not on the menu, so he/she
is likely to remain there also when you visit.

The view from the bar of
Sinalei Reef Resort and Spa. 

Papapapaitai Falls. 

Nauru - The Run Around Country



Nauru International Airport doubles as the country's only road.


I hate having to get visas in advance. Of course not to do so, may cause problems. Visitors to Nauru are required to get the visa in advance, but I was studying Mandarin in Taipei at the time and not too keen on going through the slow process of sending my application and passport off to get it sorted. So I relied on travel related luck and a big and very innocent smile. It has worked before.


The coolest boarding pass I've seen. Made by cardboard.

 But before was before. This time such a strategy caused problems in Brisbane, from where I was going to fly out from on Our Airline, the only airline flying into Nauru. I was checking in, and the woman behind the counter obviously asked for my visa.

- Do I need a visa? I thought I could get one when landing.

- No, you cannot.


- Really? Are you sure? I have purchased the ticket ages ago, and I have really been looking forward to this trip. Is there no way of getting around this? (Very lame, yes, I know. And my cheesy smile probably didn't do much good either, will have to practice on that later.)

- I am sure. I have worked here for over ten years. 

- Damn (uttered very silently)!


- I will see what I can do, but do not get your hopes up.

Double damn.

She walked over to another counter and called someone from a phone there. It seemed like a very long conversation, given the possible denial of service I was facing in the very near future.

She came back over and started typing something on the computer.

- So...is it going to be possible for me to go?

- Hmm. Yes, it looks like it. You're lucky!

She meant it. And I was. I even got a window seat.



Fishing conference

The plane, a very old 737, was almost full. Surprisingly so, until I realised that they were throwing an international fishing conference on Nauru. Not too international, though. Most participants seemed to be from Taiwan (Nauru has acknowledged Taiwan as a country - most countries have not as China requires countries to pick us (China) or them (Taiwan)), Solomon Islands and Australia. Then again, not many people have even heard about Nauru, the world's third smallest country (after the Vatican and Monaco), let alone imagined that it is possible to actually go there.


Nauru has nice views.

 I arrived Nauru (INU) late at night, and it seemed like the entire village (or country) had arrived to greet everyone arriving. Some of those there, it emerged, didn't really have a choice. The runway is also a part of the 19 kilometer long road around the island, and the road is blocked every time a plane arrives (which is not very often). Instead of driving the other way around the island, they rather check out who is coming from the "mainland" (aka. Australia, Tuvalu or Solomon Islands) before continuing.

Checked in luggage is overrated. It takes extra time, constrains mobility and gets lost every once in a while. I usually only travel with hand luggage, so also this time, making me the first person to leave the luggage room of one of the smallest airport buildings I have seen (and I am from Naustdal, a small village in Norway with a the very small neighbouring airport of Førde bringeland (FDE)).




Reassuring.



The serious looking customs guy behind a tiny wooden counter looked at me for one second, called me over and asked without hesitation:

- Are you the tourist?

The scene was set. It was only me, the locals and some other foreign people working with fish. No other tourists? I was thrilled. And then he smiled.

- Welcome to Nauru!

Of course my non-existing visa meant that the custom guy had to hold on to my passport until I was gonna leave. I wasn't worried. Crime can't be high on an island with less than 9,000 people, 19 kilometers of roads and nowhere to hide.
 

Run around a country

So, what do you do on Nauru? Well, it's a pretty circular island, surrounded by coral reefs. With, as mentioned, a road running around it. A road running around it. How many countries can claim having the same? And I had never ran around a country before. Now, I have. Nauru is just south of the Equator though, so running around the island just after lunch does not come recommended. Now, I know. I have never sweat that much since I for the first time ate a phall curry at Balti Curries in the main street of Falmouth, Cornwall in 1997.  But I made it. Just to arrive back at the hotel to discover that the water was switched off during the day. There is not much freshwater on Nauru.

I air dried pretty fast and picked the computer furthest from other people at the Internet cafe afterwards.


On my way around Nauru. Excuse my sweat.

A choice of two
The hotel situation on Nauru is rather limited. Od'n Aiwo Hotel is the cheaper hotel "downtown" while there is a more expensive "resort" on the other side of the island. The latter has a bar and hot water and is on a beach, but I still decided to go central. There was no hot water, and a woman visiting for fishing conference was in my room upon arrival (all the doors were open and she liked my room better than hers, so she tried to nick it), but there were no major issues, really.

The main problem was finding it. I arrived at night, and without any taxis I decided to walk through the dark. That was working out great until a guy in a pickup stopped and asked if I wanted a ride. He and two teenagers had picked up a relative coming by the plane, so the car was full, but not the back. I jumped in.

- Where are you going?

- I'm going to the hotel. (I couldn't remember the name. But I mean, who can remember Od'n Aiwo in the middle of the night anyway?)

- No problem, he said in a slight American accent and sped off.

Very friendly of him to pick up a total stranger in complete darkness. But then again, no crime to talk of. And I was the single person. The four of them could have trashed me if I were up to no good. The only problem was that he took me to the wrong hotel. Not his fault, of course. I was saved by the local bus driver who arrived 25 minutes later with the other plane passengers. He drove me to Od'n Aiwo free of charge.

- Enjoy your stay, he shouted after letting me off.

So, what does the central hotel mean`? "Central" means a choice of one shop, a couple of bottle shops, an Internet cafe, a police station, the city hall and two restaurants. Coming from Naustdal, I immediately felt at home.




These shoes are made for walking. Not running.
They never left the country.

 I tried both restaurants, one Chinese and one, well, let's call it non-ethnic. The Chinese will get the Michelin star of the country thanks to decent food and big portions. It's on the first floor of the hotel. There's nothing that even resembles a wine list, but they'll let you bring beers from the local bottle shop.

  

Wooden x-ray trays. Classic!



There may not be much to do on Nauru, but it is like a stereotypical Pacific island. (Of course it is a Pacific island, but that's not the point.) The beaches are beautiful, so is the water temperature. The food selection is somewhat limited, there's almost no nightlife on offer, but people are very friendly and just being able to run around a country makes it all even more worthwhile. I'll be happy to come again. My Tour de Nauru time might need improving, and that won't happen just after noon. At least I wore sunscreen.